Carlisle
Carlisle is a lovely city and a great base of operations for seeing the many sites on the west coast of England, including the stunning Lake District.
We stayed overnight in a great little Bed and Breakfast (The Wallfoot Hotel) just outside the city and had the best steak and chips I've ever had, including onion rings that I would quite obligingly kill for.The full English breakfast was also incredible.
Our route through the North to Scotland took us to several sites of interest:
Carlisle Castle
Temporary fortifications were established on this site originally on the orders of William II after taking possession of the area for England (and taking it away from the Scots). The castle has changed hands between Scotland and England many times over the past 700 years (and not in a particularly friendly manner!). More permanent structures were built over the ensuing centuries by various monarchs of both nations looking to beef up the castle defenses and the site was often the centre of much violent history between the not so always so cordial neighbours.
The castle has hosted several notable people over the ages, including Bonnie Prince Charlie (who was passing by on his way to London to attempt a little regicide) and Mary Queen of Scots (not entirely by her own choice).
The castle and museums within are great fun to explore, even for those not as enthralled by history as I am. Keep an eye out for medieval graffiti carved by some of the more unfortunate "guests" the castle has had.
Lanercost Priory
Lanercost Priory was an accidental discovery on our part as we were driving up to the better preserved parts of Hadrian's Wall.
Most of the buildings on this site date from the early 1300s, and it has been witness to some extraordinary history. Edward I was a fairly frequent visitor (bankrupting the establishment in the process) while passing by on his various campaigns to bully the Scots.
Robert the Bruce made it his headquarters for three days (on one of his "holidays" into England). He wasn't a particularly gracious guest and wasn't invited back.*
As with many religious sites in Britain, Henry VIII had the Priory dissolved (meaning he looted it for anything of value) in 1538.
Today, part of the Priory is again in use, and I have to say it's cemetery is awesomely creepy.
Hadrian's Wall
In AD 122, Emperor Hadrian ordered the wall built to keep all those damned Scots out of Roman Britain. Quite wise and industrious those Romans. I often wonder how far ahead human civilization would be if the Roman Empire hadn't fallen.
Hadrian's Wall spanned across the north of Britain from the west coast (near Carlisle) to the east coast (near Bowness-on-Solway), a total length of 73 miles. Depending on terrain and local building materials, the wall was generally about 10 feet thick, and between 16 and 20 feet high. Towers were placed every Roman mile, with several larger forts constructed along it's length. It took three Roman Legions only seven years to complete... quite an achievement back then. And really, it would be an even greater achievement today (the Romans didn't have to contend with unions or special interest groups) and property owners who woke up to find a big stone wall dividing their property had the good sense not to argue with the big soldiery looking chaps with the pointed swords.
The wall and defensive sites were generally abandoned after the Romans left Britain, and it fell into disrepair. Several hundred years of locals plundering it for ready made building materials have reduced it's impressiveness significantly.
Rumour has it that the government in Westminster will rebuild the wall should Scotland gain independence in 2015... but it will take fifty years just to complete the surveys, environmental impact assessment, and select a contractor before construction can begin.
Birdoswald Roman Fort
One of the better preserved of 16 Roman forts along the wall.
Once occupied by Roman auxiliaries between AD112 and AD400, it's ruins are now primarily inhabited by sheep and the cutest little lambs.
Here we were witness to the worst weather we had while travelling through the UK. It rained, hailed, snowed all within a 15 minute period. In the above picture, you can note the rather ominous looking skies just before the worst of the weather hit.
Housesteads Roman Fort
Because we hadn't seen enough rocks piled up by Romans. Housesteads is the best preserved Roman fort along the wall.
It's quite a climb up from the site parking lot, so be prepared for a little exercise.
Just when we'd thought we'd outrun the masses of French tourists, we ran smack into a large hoard of them at Housteads. It did however provide us with the best line from anyone we'd heard on our trip from the Scottish tour guide that was corralling them into the ruins:
"If you lot don't stop horsing around and get a move on, I'm going to make this the worst day of your lives."
Presumably they made an enemy for life (see above Simpsons clip).
*Edward I, Robert the Bruce and William Wallace are held in high regards and fairly romanticized by their respective nations. I would point out, that had they all been gallivanting around Great Britain today, they'd have all been marched off in short order to the Hague for war crimes.
Carlisle is a lovely city and a great base of operations for seeing the many sites on the west coast of England, including the stunning Lake District.
We stayed overnight in a great little Bed and Breakfast (The Wallfoot Hotel) just outside the city and had the best steak and chips I've ever had, including onion rings that I would quite obligingly kill for.The full English breakfast was also incredible.
Our route through the North to Scotland took us to several sites of interest:
Carlisle Castle
 |
| Carlisle Castle |
The castle has hosted several notable people over the ages, including Bonnie Prince Charlie (who was passing by on his way to London to attempt a little regicide) and Mary Queen of Scots (not entirely by her own choice).
The castle and museums within are great fun to explore, even for those not as enthralled by history as I am. Keep an eye out for medieval graffiti carved by some of the more unfortunate "guests" the castle has had.
 |
| Graffiti so old, it has historical significance |
Lanercost Priory
Lanercost Priory was an accidental discovery on our part as we were driving up to the better preserved parts of Hadrian's Wall.Most of the buildings on this site date from the early 1300s, and it has been witness to some extraordinary history. Edward I was a fairly frequent visitor (bankrupting the establishment in the process) while passing by on his various campaigns to bully the Scots.
Robert the Bruce made it his headquarters for three days (on one of his "holidays" into England). He wasn't a particularly gracious guest and wasn't invited back.*
As with many religious sites in Britain, Henry VIII had the Priory dissolved (meaning he looted it for anything of value) in 1538.
Today, part of the Priory is again in use, and I have to say it's cemetery is awesomely creepy.
Hadrian's Wall
 |
| Hadrian's Wall facing East towards Crag Lough |
Hadrian's Wall spanned across the north of Britain from the west coast (near Carlisle) to the east coast (near Bowness-on-Solway), a total length of 73 miles. Depending on terrain and local building materials, the wall was generally about 10 feet thick, and between 16 and 20 feet high. Towers were placed every Roman mile, with several larger forts constructed along it's length. It took three Roman Legions only seven years to complete... quite an achievement back then. And really, it would be an even greater achievement today (the Romans didn't have to contend with unions or special interest groups) and property owners who woke up to find a big stone wall dividing their property had the good sense not to argue with the big soldiery looking chaps with the pointed swords.
 |
| For those planning on hiking the length of the wall, mind the sheep crap. |
Rumour has it that the government in Westminster will rebuild the wall should Scotland gain independence in 2015... but it will take fifty years just to complete the surveys, environmental impact assessment, and select a contractor before construction can begin.
Birdoswald Roman Fort
One of the better preserved of 16 Roman forts along the wall.
Once occupied by Roman auxiliaries between AD112 and AD400, it's ruins are now primarily inhabited by sheep and the cutest little lambs.
 |
| Awwww |
Housesteads Roman Fort
 |
| Housesteads Gatehouse overlooking a portion of the wall |
It's quite a climb up from the site parking lot, so be prepared for a little exercise.
Just when we'd thought we'd outrun the masses of French tourists, we ran smack into a large hoard of them at Housteads. It did however provide us with the best line from anyone we'd heard on our trip from the Scottish tour guide that was corralling them into the ruins:
"If you lot don't stop horsing around and get a move on, I'm going to make this the worst day of your lives."
Presumably they made an enemy for life (see above Simpsons clip).
Next: Across the Border and into Scotland
Comments
Post a Comment